My father was a great storyteller. With his innocent smile and eloquent Hindi, he would bring life to the storybooks that he would bring from the Railway Workshop. He would not only encourage me to read them but also read out stories.
Oftentimes he would also share stories from Ramayana and Mahabharat. During such storytelling sessions he would talk about rishis, how they would live their lives in gufas or caves and do their sadhnas. As a kid, I would be fascinated by caves but the darkness has been one of my biggest fears.
For a large part of my life, I would sleep by keeping the lights on. Whenever I would sit in a dark place I would feel that someone is standing behind me or going to touch me. The fear kept on growing as I became older. It was much later in my life that Vipassana helped me in fighting this fear. Today I can close my eyes and sit without fear. Have I won the battle? No. However, the state is better.
Caves are also associated with my love of mountains. Primarily for two reasons - one my body loves the colder climate and second the natural experience is bliss. Over the years the excitement about the mountains continued but the desire to look for a cave almost caved in.
In 2020 the feeling was uncovered once again while reading the book “Autobiography of a Yogi” by Paramhansa Yogananda.
This was the year when we were hit by the deadly virus and as a society, we were getting used to lockdowns. In the evenings my mother would make snacks and I would find this is as a great opportunity to discuss the stories from the book. Sipping their milky tea they would listen and add their flavours to my stories.
Chapter 33 of the book discusses Babaji:
“The northern Himalayan crags near Badrinarayan are still blessed by the living presence of Babaji, guru of Lahiri Mahasaya. The secluded master has retained his physical form for centuries, perhaps for millenniums.”
“Whenever anyone utters with reverence the name of Babaji,” Lahiri Mahasaya said, “that devotee attracts an instant spiritual blessing.”
During the course of reading this book, I had this desire to travel to Mahavatar Babaji’s Cave. Just to be there and feel the place. My mother was not impressed by my desire and as usual remarked: “Are you trying to become a sadhu or a saint at this age?”
However, my father had no objection.
It’s been more than two years since this incident. My father now lives within me and we have settled with the virus.
Arunachala and caves
Pre February 2022, Arunachala was just a mountain and today I feel that there is life in every rock and pebble.
Arthur Osborne in his book - “Ramana Maharshi and the path of self-knowledge” writes:
“Sri Bhagavan declared that it is the heart of the earth, the spiritual centre of the world.”
The Skanda Purana declares: “That is the holy place. Of all, Arunachala is the most sacred. It is the heat of the world. Know it to be the secret and sacred Heart-centre of Siva.”
While weekend mornings are booked with the mountain, even weekdays when there is a possibility I do visit. Walking on the rocks I get the feeling that I am touching Sri Bhagavan. I feel like my bond with him is getting stronger who taught in silence - Dakshinamurti: Siva’s teaching in silence.
In February 2022 I was contemplating coming to the spiritual and mysterious town also known as Tiruvanmalai and now here I am living with my newfound love - Sri Bhagavan. A relationship that has transpired to look into me and be in peace.
Generally when people come to Tiru most of them would visit the Ashram and do the spiritual walk of Giri Vallam. I knew Arunachala from my journey into Vipassana and the mountain attracted me.
And thus started my love affair with Arunachala.
Arunachala is also known for the caves where Sri Bhagavan meditated - Skandashramam and Virupaksha. The caves are now open from 8:30 AM to 4 PM. However, the caves are closed from 12 PM to 2 PM. If you really want to feel the presence of Arunachala then accept the heat and try to go early morning. The best way is to take the path from inside the Ashram and that will take you to Skandashramam. The 3KM walk will take you 45 to 60 minutes. Do carry a bottle of water.
Once you reach Skandashramam, a path takes you down. After walking for 5-7 minutes you would reach Virupaksha Cave. If you keep going down you would meet the Mango Tree Cave.
There are more ways to reach the caves depending on which side of Arunachala you are starting your journey. The more you spend time with Arunachala, the more it opens new mysterious paths.
Virupaksha Cave
After spending two years in Tiruvannamalai, Sri Bhagavan began to live in Arunachala. He never left Arunachala again. Virupaksha on the eastern slope of Arunachala is the first cave that Sri Bhagavan went to and stayed in the longest(1899-1966).
Today after finishing my prasad offered at the Ashram, I pushed myself to go to Virupasksha. I decided to walk from the Eastern slope since it was already 11 in the morning and the sun was blazing. The walk was a breeze and in no time I was standing at the gates of Virupaksha. You are not allowed to take any pictures and requested to keep mobiles silent.
I sat in the small courtyard outside the cave, took a few sips of the hot boiling water from my bottle and imagined that once upon a time Sri Bhagavan would do the same. As I entered the cave, the smell of camphor welcomed me and I was taken into a different world.
After spending some time looking at the photographs of Sri Bhagavan, I entered the small room in the cave which is for meditation. I was there for an hour. Trying to digest the feeling that I am sitting on the same floor that was once shared by him.
The room is pitch dark, but after a while, it just settles in. I was completely drenched in sweat but still, the experience was unique. I don’t have words to express my feeling.
In the summer months, Virupaksha Cave becomes oppressively hot, so Sri Bhagavan would come down to the cave near the Mulaipal Tirtha tank. A mango tree stands over the cave, giving it shade, from which it has acquired the name of Mango Tree Cave. This is a small cave considered to all other caves but is a beautiful one. The timings are 6 AM to 12 PM and 2 PM to 6 PM.
By the time I came down the cave was closed. I sat outside and was enjoying the cool breeze. In came the pandit opened the gates, did a quick arti and gave me blessings. I stayed for a while and walked down to the town.
Skandashramam Cave
From 1966 to 1922 Sri Bhagavan lived in Skandashramam. I have done four to five barefoot visits to the cave and every time the journey is divine. More than the cave the early morning walk is surreal to me.
Now the gates open at 8:30 and there will be a gang of monkeys waiting for food. Till now my experience with them has been peaceful.
On two occasions one of them wanted to find out what is there in my backpack. I sat in a peaceful manner - he looked at my watch, played with the bag’s zip, touched the spectacles, sat on my back and then after a while went away.
The cave has been well maintained and the first room is of the mother. Right next to it you have a small room and right after it, another room called the meditation room. Sit anywhere and close your eyes; the job of destructing the mind will start. But you will also need to surrender to Sri Bhagavan.
There are some more caves and I have left Arunachala to open the doors when the time is right. I would love to visit a cave at night and sit in the beauty of darkness. I am sure it will be beautiful, like how Arunachala glimmers in the night.
Do you really need to visit a cave to look into yourself?
Sri Yukteswar responds to Yoaganda:
“Are you able to have a little room where you can close the door and be alone?”
“Yes.” I reflected that this saint descended from the general to the particular with disconcerting speed.
“That is your cave.” The yogi bestowed on me a gaze of illumination which I have never forgotten. “That is your sacred mountain. That is where you will find the kingdom of God.”
While it is true, for me caves, where Siddhas have meditated, have a different vibe altogether. Today sitting in the Ashram or sitting in the caves where Sri Bhagavan meditated is the same thing for this devotee.
But this is a newfound love. The lover wants to be everywhere where his love has a presence.